My 12th Jerusalem trip brings me a lot of satisfaction and a feeling of achievement. To visit the 3500 year old Tomb of Rachel, the third holiest site of Judaism was something which I had been cherishing for long time. Most of the guide books and online sources I consulted had to say hard words for accessing the Tomb. The bulletproof buses to reach there, its sensitive location, tensed situations and suggestions like only guided tours and yeshiva students are allowed inside the tomb made be really worried.
Remember my previous trip to Jerusalem and how I failed to visit the Tomb of Rachel? It also added my concern planning the trip again. Somehow, I don't know how...I told myself....I am not going to miss the venue no matter whatever it takes. The first step was to find where exactly Egged bus 163 arrives (to the Tomb of Rachel). After taking Egged 446 (8.20 am) from Beer Sheva, I arrived Jerusalem Central Bus Station (CBS) around 10.30. Looking for the number 163 at all the platforms outside the CBS and the ones near the Government office building (called Beit Hauma in Hebrew), I didn't succeed finding where our mysterious bus appears. I had a printout from Egged Site mentioning that the bus starts from יפו/מול ת.מ.3 and showed it to a passerby. What he could tell me was that the bus starts in front of CBS at the Jaffa Road and it was something which I already knew. Any how, I stood before platform 3 thinking that if the bus is going to pass CBS, I am not going to miss it. I was casually looking for the list of buses at the Hebrew side of platform board and to my great surprise, 163 was displayed as the last candidate! I was shocked when I turned to the English side and saw that all the buses in Hebrew version are there except for Egged 163. It is really funny… looks to me that may be due to the sensitivity of site and to discourage non-religious tourists visiting the site; the information is only for Hebrew reading speakers! I learned my hard lesson that do not always trust English sign boards in Israel. Sharp at 11.10 am, the bus arrives and it was just like any normal local Jerusalem Egged buses and didn't appear to me bullet proof. I asked for a ticket to the Tomb of Rachel and the driver was blank. I realized that I have to say Khever Rahel instead.
The route through Hebron Road reminded me my earlier trip to Bethlehem, but this time we passed through Mt. Zion sector of Jerusalem. It took some 1 hr to reach the entrance to the Tomb Complex (near Bethlehem). At the starting point was a military checkpoint where our bus stopped, a soldier dashes in and makes the routine checking. Getting green signal from him, another soldier accompanies us from the checkpoint to the main entrance of the tomb. The whole drive through the fortified road strengthened by huge 8 meter tall concrete walls on either side, took less than 2 minutes. We were dropped just before the Tomb's entrance. I walked towards the men's side, borrowed a kippah and went to the Tomb. Contrary to my expectation, the venue was not crowded. After spending some short but very peaceful moments inside the tomb, I went back to the entrance. With permission of the guards sitting there, I took a few photographs of the access roads to the tomb. The return bus to Jerusalem arrived exactly at 12.30 pm before the entrance and my mission to Khever Rachel was done quite peacefully without any sort of complications. Regarding the Tomb and its significance, you can go through the description attached with the photographs.
Phase II of the day was dedicated for another famous Tomb. The traditional site for the Tomb of Biblical Prophet Samuel lies in the outskirts of Jerusalem at the top of a hill. I caught Egged 171 (1.20 pm) from Beit Hauma (near CBS) and took some 20 minutes before I got down at the Nebi Shmuel stop. A large sign board marked the direction to the Tomb, and from there a steep road took me to the National Park area of the Tomb of Samuel. The Tomb as such is inside an abandoned mosque that resembled to me a fort from distance. I climbed to the roof top of the mosque and view from there to the City of Jerusalem and near by settlements was fabulous. No doubt why Crusaders called the site "The Mount of Joy" when had the first glimpse of the Holy City from here. All around the Tomb complex are ruins from crusader and later periods. There is a high chance to miss the entrance to the tomb located at the rear side of the mosque as all the sign boards are in Hebrew. After visiting the Tomb and wandering through the archaeological excavations and nearby serene garden, I walked back to the bus stop. Took Egged 271 (3.15 pm) and got down at CBS. I called it a day and via Egged 470 (4.10 pm) to Beer Sheva and through Metropolin 60 (6.30 pm), I was back to Sede Boker around 7.15 pm.
The route through Hebron Road reminded me my earlier trip to Bethlehem, but this time we passed through Mt. Zion sector of Jerusalem. It took some 1 hr to reach the entrance to the Tomb Complex (near Bethlehem). At the starting point was a military checkpoint where our bus stopped, a soldier dashes in and makes the routine checking. Getting green signal from him, another soldier accompanies us from the checkpoint to the main entrance of the tomb. The whole drive through the fortified road strengthened by huge 8 meter tall concrete walls on either side, took less than 2 minutes. We were dropped just before the Tomb's entrance. I walked towards the men's side, borrowed a kippah and went to the Tomb. Contrary to my expectation, the venue was not crowded. After spending some short but very peaceful moments inside the tomb, I went back to the entrance. With permission of the guards sitting there, I took a few photographs of the access roads to the tomb. The return bus to Jerusalem arrived exactly at 12.30 pm before the entrance and my mission to Khever Rachel was done quite peacefully without any sort of complications. Regarding the Tomb and its significance, you can go through the description attached with the photographs.
Phase II of the day was dedicated for another famous Tomb. The traditional site for the Tomb of Biblical Prophet Samuel lies in the outskirts of Jerusalem at the top of a hill. I caught Egged 171 (1.20 pm) from Beit Hauma (near CBS) and took some 20 minutes before I got down at the Nebi Shmuel stop. A large sign board marked the direction to the Tomb, and from there a steep road took me to the National Park area of the Tomb of Samuel. The Tomb as such is inside an abandoned mosque that resembled to me a fort from distance. I climbed to the roof top of the mosque and view from there to the City of Jerusalem and near by settlements was fabulous. No doubt why Crusaders called the site "The Mount of Joy" when had the first glimpse of the Holy City from here. All around the Tomb complex are ruins from crusader and later periods. There is a high chance to miss the entrance to the tomb located at the rear side of the mosque as all the sign boards are in Hebrew. After visiting the Tomb and wandering through the archaeological excavations and nearby serene garden, I walked back to the bus stop. Took Egged 271 (3.15 pm) and got down at CBS. I called it a day and via Egged 470 (4.10 pm) to Beer Sheva and through Metropolin 60 (6.30 pm), I was back to Sede Boker around 7.15 pm.
Thanks! It was great to look at those pictures! I like your blog!
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